I have photos of the dress being worn forth-coming and they are really amazing. Stay posted.
I have worn the ensemble in public twice for durations longer than 4 hours. I find myself explaining to my company that the dress is a dress, and can be worn, moved in, and sat in. I do not need to stand up in it, I can get up by myself, I can walk and even run, and, yes, I can breathe just like everyone else. I just breathe, stand and walk differently.
WEARING THE CORSET
(everyone’s favorite reading material)
I tight-laced the corset on Saturday night and was uncomfortable after about four hours. It was rather pointless, since I fit the bodice without the tight-lacing so any further reduction in the size of my waist would not have shown. The well-deserved deep breath I took when it was taken off felt fantastic. I would imagine that Victorian women would do what we would call ‘tight-lacing’ for short durations only, sticking to a looser lacing for daily social occasions.
Remember, the corset was their version of our bra. It was just as common, and not reserved for special occasions. But just as the modern woman will have underwear for the gym, for school or work, with a formal gown, or on a special date or event, so would a Victorian woman own a number of corsets in differing magnitudes/powers. They manufactured nursing corsets, corsets for young girls with poor posture, and more relaxed versions with limited boning.
The modern concept of the corset being an item for the naughty and deviant is an evolution of its meaning. Since I am taking a class on Beowulf, I will call to mind an example from Old English. The word deor in old English means beast or monster and can be applied to a vigorous fighter. The word evolved to simply mean animal, and finally, came to rest at it’s current translation: deer. So when one translates a sentence describing Beowulf as a ‘deor’ it means he is a fighting man of monstrous powers in melee, not Bambi.
The corset used to be an clothing item that would smooth a woman’s lines, show no unseemly bulges, prevent sweat from coming through the clothes in a time of no deodorant, and keep her posture long to present her as a member of the non-labor class and in good health. It was a functional tool. The corset has evolved with links now to Bettie Page, bondage, subversion and victimization. When I made and wore my corset, it was for the former purpose, not the later.
Today, I wore the corset for about four hours with it not tight-laced, and it was actually comfortable. Unlike popular conceptions of Victorian corsets, it does not hurt your back. In fact, I have read that tight-lacing corsets is easier if you have no stomach muscles, since stomach muscles are less squishy than fat. The back-supporting stays of the corset can hold your back straight on its own, no stomach muscles necessary. Upper class women in the Victorian period, who would be trained with corsets from an early age developed a dependency on the corset since most of them were relatively inactive and had no encouragement – either physical or social – to develop chiseled abs. They had outstanding posture, however, and their years of tight-lacing can’t have been that much worse for them than years chained to a computer desk with no attempts to improve and maintain good posture.
For some unexplained reason, it makes me stiff in my upper back where the corset does not cover. But perhaps that is because I was trying to hold my neck very straight. The Edwardian S-curve corset may be different, but that is the topic for another post and project.
WEARING THE GOWN
It is a dress, and can be worn like any other dress. It is hemmed correctly for me, so I don’t need to hold it up in front when I walk. Due to the cut of the panels and the twill tape piece that holds it in back, the train and skirt stays where it should without any adjustments needed after wearing. The bodice is cut properly, so I can move in it naturally. When I don’t want the train to trail, I bend over (without help) and pick it up without letting the bustle petticoat show. It’s not hard.
Sitting is easy as well. To keep the bustle looking even, one must perch on the edge of the chair. The bustle naturally sticks out a little in the back, showing off the skirt beautifully. I used to wonder why women in fashion plates were shown perching on chairs with their skirts falling into place perfectly. It happens naturally due to the construction of the dress, and explains why so many of the parlor chairs were small, low, and armless. It also explains why in a parlor set the ‘man’s chair has constrictive arms, and the womens’ were smaller scale and armless. If a woman were to sit in a chair with arms, her bustle wires would have no where to go. I have lounged on a sofa in the gown. In the bustle that I made, which is more hoop-like, it sticks out a bit at the hemline. It’s not very graceful, but still doable. I would imagine that a woman would have another bustle for relaxed days, which would be less hoop-like. The bustle I made was rather formal.
In summation, the hardest thing about moving in the gown was actually walking my tall boots, which were modern, and I’m not saying this for effect.
DRIVING IN THE GOWN
Not so easy, but doable once the fear subsides. This was the most interesting part of my experiment, since I often suspected that many of the fashion changes in the twentieth century developed after the shift from carriage to automobile.
The hardest aspect of the bustle-automobile relationship is getting in it. It would have been easier had I not had a hairstyle where my hair was combed over rolls and a hat. The rolls in my hair and the hat would hit the top of the door opening. Correspondingly, my mind would be hit with a rush of fear: did my hat fall off and take my combed and padded hair with it? Did I break any feathers or lose a silk flower? But there was no damage. Acctually, the hat/hair matrix were the greatest inhibitors of mobility: turning your head to look at traffic while being afraid you would break a feather. But as soon as I realized I wouldn’t break a feather it was easy.
It is hard to sit in a car in a bustle in a demure fashion. The skirt and hoop need to be pulled past the knees with the bottom bone floating above your lap. But even with that, I was covered up more than most women in my age bracket.
IN SUMMATION
If I wanted to be very scientific and empirical, I could set up situations in which some data could be gained. Since we have no data regarding dressing and undressing and locomotion of women in 1875, we are unable to compare and contrast. But I could while wearing the dress time how long it took me to pick of the skirt, what percentage of my bottom sat on a chair, my lung capacity while wearing the corset, or how long it took me to drive from point A to point B and compare and contrast with, say, 21st Century expectations taken from a sample of thirty or more. But since that’s a lot of work and so on and so forth, I will not be specific about my own observations.
I am pleased that the ensemble I created is wearable. The originals must have been wearable since they were worn by women in circumstances just as physically trying if not more so than ours today, so I am satisfied that the gown was authentic in that respect. Appearance wise, it looks very authentic (pictures coming soon). So it passes the look and feel test in flying colors. As to the construction, I know that I used, where ever possible period materials: silk, cotton, steel bones instead of plastic, no polyester, etc.
Since the whole look must be period, I looked at old fashion hairstyle plates for the period. I combed the back of my hair over two rolls to get a nice ‘bustled,’ shelf-like hairstyle, atop which I perched a shrunken, tiny hat which I made myself out of the gown fabric. From the rolls, I had cascades of ringlets, both my own and fake, which I pinned in place. The effect was really good, and isn’t as hard as it sounds. I did my hair with a corset on if that says anything.
As I previously mentioned, there are some breath-taking photos forthcoming taken in Mount Hope Cemetary.
Its very great dress! First off all, i thrilled by seeing this oldest and sweet dress.Its very good.
Well… this is a first. Somehow, you managed to segue from Beowulf to Bambi and then to Betty Page, all in a very academic and analytical way – and yet, I found myself smiling and laughing when you got to the point of debating the relative merits of chiseled versus “squishy” abs!
Fantastic! Only extreme self-control prevented a spray of coffee across the notebook screen!
I loved the post – your descriptive style, sense of humor and the depth of your research make for a very entertaining read… the “field test” notes are a bonus!
Mount Hope must have been a perfect venue for the photo shoot – a bit chilly this time of year, but a perfect period setting nonetheless. I’d suggest the Sonnenberg Mansion for some gorgeous indoor shots, if you don’t mind me saying so. They’re pretty accommodating, and the gods know that it would be a tad warmer to boot.
You rock, btw… seriously.
.g.
So, while this is indeed a refreshing change from the usual blog, are you looking for some sort of reward because you made a gown, wore corset, did your hair authentically?
I wear a corset all the time because it makes the clothing sit in a much nicer way and it’s no big deal, I don’t brag about it but will inform people what it is like if I’m doing a period event and the ask.
Why is it that all the Victorianists out there today are all in this sort of hobby like it’s some kind of competition and want recognition for their own individual accomplishments rather than just enjoying it without having to slapping everyone over the head with it for attention?
What’s worse, is that most of you don’t really seem to understand the underlying meaning to life as lived by the Victorians! Atleast not in a way that puts all this knowledge (which becomes otherwise useless) to good purpose in a modern so society so badly dissected by the very loss of those life virtues that we need seriously reconsider who WE are and how we’ve failed! There’s much more to the Victorian period than just playing dress up and it’s growing more dissappointing to see that most people can’t truly live it these days, just play foofoo fantasy in their glorious gowns for a few hours and go back to conformity when out in the real world.
Anyone can make a gown for a period event, but learning to do it just for yourself and not to make a statement is a totally different experience. Especially when you truly believe in everything once associated with those fashions and do it facing public criticism but continue doing it because, again, you believe in it in more ways than average superficiality.
Thank you, Lady Bean for the comment. I admire your spirit, and your comments and am glad to hear from someone so passionate on the subject. That you view the process as an internal one and that it is not something done for a very unflattering need for attention is likewise refreshing.
One can often wish that one could wear a corset or a beautiful gown, leave calling cards or respect social traditions and ritual – or whatever _historically_ Victorian may be – without being labeled as odd. The socially graceful and sensitive whatever their props should be rewarded, not punished, lauded, not abused. Though I would not pretend to deserve either the criticism or the honor of being called a revivalist of Victorian society, I would view those who had earned such a title as being interesting and deserving respect.
The Victorian era had its fair share of disrespectful and superficial individuals, just as any modern era. No era in history was free of those, though the platforms differ. Just because a woman’s hands were gloved, her hair combed over rolls, her diction clean, and her corset tightly laced does not necessarily mean she was any less internally coarse, vindictive, or aggressive than a jeans-and-t-shirt-wearing woman from 2009. Good behavior and social consciousness are timeless, though rich social protocol, such as the aesthetically wonderful Victorian era dogma, can sometimes curtail some fringe social hostility, and smooth some jagged edges.
There are no Victorian societies here in Rochester. I envy those who live in larger cities where one is available and where one can lace a corset in anticipation for an event. It seems I am lucky in that I have not physically encountered women who use ‘historical costuming’ as an opportunity to flounce around in a dress for attention. I am sorry you haven’t been so lucky.
“it’s growing more disappointing to see that most people can’t truly live it these days,”; So disappointing, it would seem, that the ‘esteemable’ Lady Bean would flout the life virtues she so laments. I would say more, but it would only serve as fodder.
This particular blogger is exhibiting an uncanny poise in the face of such unfounded criticism, and having read this blog in its entirety I’ll claim that Lady Bean has-been rash in each and every one of her judgements. Good form suggests an apology after deeper reading.
Melissa, I think you have shown a very Victorian restraint in your response to Lady Bean. I would only wish that I could be so polite in the face of such misguided criticism. Bravo!
Dear Melissa:
My name is Javier Cuesta and I’m owner of websites http://www.kulturagotika.com and http://www.gothic-culture.com
I tried to contact you by email but was unable to find one so I’m writing this comment hoping you read it.
I’m writing because I wanted you to know that i wrote an article in both my sites about your experiences in wearing a Victorian dress, you can read the English version in http://www.gothic-culture.com (the other site contains a translation into Spanish as well made as I could).
I added some links linking here site but please feel free to contact if you want more links elsewere or if you want any part of the articles changed or removed, I also used some photos of your website, hope that’s not an issue.
Sincerely yours:
Javier.
I am a costumer in Brisbane, Australia, who has made her own share of Victorian outfits and read a number of online blogs devoted to the creation of period clothes.
I found your analysis of wearing a corset and gown in a modern world to be an interesting read, even for someone who has worn a corset before.
I also think that the work you have put into blogging about the actual experience of wearing a period outfit is very useful and informative for many sorts who may never wear a period outfit but be fascinated by reading someone’s experience. (Including costuming students, fashion design students and writers of period novels.)
I don’t think your blogging is begging for praise in any way (though it certainly deserves it) but is rather refreshingly different to so many of the other costuming blogs out there.
I’ll be keenly following from now on!
Wow! I don’t think I could ask for better praise! There is nothing like such praise to make one feel duty bound to produce!
Thanks for your great descriptions of wearing that gorgeous dress. I am an historic house museum curator, and I’m writing a furnishinngs plan for a lady’s bedroom. I was pretty sure I shouldn’t use an armchair in there. I’ve worn period clothing exactly once and my skirt has no bustle, so I wanted more information. Thanks for sharing, and for much-needed confirmation!
Wow! Just Wow! on so many levels. I’ve never worn a corset so I have thoroughly enjoyed your description and explanations. I’m intrigued with the dresses of the Bustle Era, both early and late, so Victorian Dress Diaries are fascinating~I wish that I could find more to peruse. I sew, sort of, thus I’m truly enjoying reading about how you constructed your garments. I am appalled that ‘Lady Bean’ felt compelled to leave such unpleasant comments; you show such grace and dignity in your reply. I thoroughly agree with the visitors’ comments to ‘Lady Bean.’ Reading your blog is a joy. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences both in sewing and wearing. Sincerely, DoriG
[…] Bustle: an Apologia. Follow her links and you’ll find another enlightening discussion: Wearing an 1875 bustle gown in 2008. From a very helpful timeline at The Costumer’s Manifesto. Share this:TwitterFacebookLike […]