As mentioned in the previous post, the top panel is already attached. So the order of business for today was the assembly and insertion of the side panels and train. On the left is a photo of the train with the side panels attached. Isn’t it lovely how the lines on the plaid on the side panels line up with those on the train? It was all planned, you see.
The next step was to pleat to top of the train. The next photo shows the pleated train.
Now we are ready to sew the thing in. I hand sewed it into the bodice, being careful to catch the interliner, but not the purple plaid while doing so. I was careful to cut the top of all of the panels on the edge of the fabric so it won’t fray. The Olive antique gown I posted previously uses the edge for the same purpose, so it’s authentic and not a cheap trick. Those clever Victorians!
I made two plackards to join the waist out of lilac silk, interlined in a very sturdy canvas. These are sewn onto the first interior bone. There is a long bone going down the front of the bodice opening, the same one that gave me nightmares when the angle of the opening was asymmetric. The lilac plackard is attached to the bone after that. To the right is a shot of the interior, all finished off, save the arms. My poor bodice is still armless.
To the left is a side view with all panels happily nestled into the bodice. The long purple scarf-like thing is the untied sash. It will meet it’s mate towards the bottom of the top panel, and be tied in a bow. The top panel poufs need to be basted in place before the two sashes can reunite.
Believe it or not, I still haven’t entirely decided what to do with the front of the bodice. The plan is to have a buttoned in panel, to simulate an under bodice and give the appearace that the whole polonaise is like a jacket on top of a dress. I’m planning on still doing the whole faked bodice thing. It shouldn’t take long at all.
And the sleeves, I think they will be three quarter again. I did that last time, but they looked really good so why mess with something that works. I have a couple types of antique lace that I may sew in around the neckline and armholes. Oh, and I have a battenburg lace parasol with lilac embroidery. You can get anything on e-bay, it seems.
If there’s a lot of typos, I apologise. The household thimble has gone missing, so my fingertips have suffered. I have made the sacrifice of blood to the costuming gods.* May they now bless my endeavor!
It’s cold and wet here in Rochester, so all of you in warmer places be grateful.
*There really is no such thing as costuming gods, and sacrifices to them are not advised since they probably don’t exist.