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Archive for June 10th, 2009

Edwardian styles have been creeping back into couture.

Givency Edwardian

Givenchy Edwardian

The whole purpose of the Edwardian silhouette with it’s s-bend corset, white shoulders, ‘stuffed’-like bosom, hip-hugging skirt, and flared hem, was to personify the elegance of the exaggerated female form: Small waist, curving hips, delicate, subtle yet substantial, and a generous, matriarchial busom. It was smooth, lacey, art nouveau, like abstract arabesques and ascanthus curves.

What is that [on the left]?! Ridiculous in Ivory!? This is not Edwardian. This is insane, like storm troppers pretending they are on a picnic out of attrition caused delirium. What that has to do with the Edwardian period, I just don’t know.

There is no poured-in fit, no pronounced curves, no grace. She looks like she is in a straight jacket, possibly in pain. The bolstered shoulders are made no more feminine with chiffon. The hair does nothing to balance the look out, only exaggerating her sticky legs and arms. The skirt looks stretched and pinned on contrasting with the verticality of the arms, legs and hair, not liquidy and flowing to complement curves and lengthen the line. Miniskirts are never complimentary unless you need some instant hips – and there are lots of easier ways to get those – for they do the worst: cut the line in half, shorten the legs. When mixed with an Edwardian top, she looks like a mummy princess trying to make her way into a career in a lame attempt for world domination.

Amazingly enough reviewers have praised Fall 2009 designers for their optimism. I’m hoping this is another one of their insert-random-stock-phrase-in-review-moments, or else one must conclude that their judgemental and interpretive abilities have been affected by Stockholm Symdrome. For if this is Givenchy’s interpretation of Edwardian updated, he then implies that the graceful woman of 2009 is uphappy, bound, miserable, and disjointed. Would you like to be one of those?

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Fiat overlay

I have lots of yards of French manufactured black silk embroidered ecru silk organza to work as an overlay for the gown. It got it for such a good price, practically stole it.

Most of the tone on tone white/ivory/off-white type fabrics I was finding were cheaply made or ridiculously expensive. And it’s just as well. Though I love the all white look of Edwardian period, I must say that it’s not so much fun. Flat white is hard to appreciate and color photo, and that’s the reason why so many brides opt for champagne or off white detail. The detail can disappear in a white blur.

So far, I still plan on using the cutwork for the hem. The antique swag lace will border the bottom of the overlay, and possibly be used in other places as well. I have so much of it, and it’s not the type to gather. I will need to be creative so as to appreciate and employ the significant quantity.

For the base, I think I will hunt down a lighter colored ivory silk.

 

… now it’s time to go get some sandpaper and strip some Eastlake drawer hardware. I love old houses. :-)

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Edwardian Stunners

 

The texture is incredible

The texture is incredible

 

The Immortal Lily Langtry

The Immortal Lily Langtry

 

Princess Maud of Great Britain, Queen of Norway. A fashion leader of the time.

Princess Maud of Great Britain, Queen of Norway. A rare instance of dark drama.

 

Rose

Rose tinted photo. The bottom of the skirt is very full. An ivory overlay with gold and ivory lace overtop a rose colored base. Stunning.

 

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